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Brewing Videos / This accident taught me how to dry hop under pressure safe :D
« Last post by DrHans on June 14, 2019, 03:09:13 PM »
Grain to glass video of a double dry hopped IPA fermented under pressure in the fermentasaurus conical fermenter
Hi Macdonald.

Maximum brew house efficiency is undoubtedly a very high priority for a pro brewer such as yourself.

I have a question that I can never seem to get a straight answer on when I've visited my local nano breweries.  I'm not saying they were lying to me.  I just think that the more experienced Brew Masters are not there on the weekend, and the apprentices or the person pouring the flights is simply just guessing.

I would like to ask your professional opinion about what you've seen behind the scenes at the nano level and what you intend to do at your own brew house.

Do you plan on using Option-1 or Option-2 . . .


After mashing out, are you going to begin to fly sparge water on top of the grain bed while simultaneously running off wort at the same rate to your boil kettle, and then cut the sparge water off at some point (based upon a sparge water calculation) even though you might end up having too much airclaim wort or not enough wort, forcing you to have to discard some extra wort or having to start sparging again if you run short on wort?


After mashing out, are you going to drain / pump all of the wort from your Mash Tun until it's empty, and then start fly sparging through the grain bed until you've reached the proper volume in your Boil Kettle?

I really don't know which option above is more efficient that the other.  As home brewers, we can occasionally afford to waste a little bit of water or a little bit of propane if we overshoot our pre-boil volume.  Just curious how a pro does their sparge because they cannot afford to waste water, wort, or fuel, and need to nail their sparge technique 99% of the time.

I will go for option 1, it's worth the try!
Come and Say Hello and Introduce Yourself / Re: Hello
« Last post by combat32 on June 12, 2019, 07:15:23 PM »
welcome aboard

What styles do you like to brew?

Come and Say Hello and Introduce Yourself / Hello
« Last post by susan063 on June 12, 2019, 04:48:56 AM »
Hi everyone,

Finally! I am in this forum, glad to meet and mingle with each and everyone of you. See you around guys!
Equipment / Re: BIAB 15 Gal Pot Advice
« Last post by combat32 on June 11, 2019, 09:10:27 PM »
I have been thinking of doing a keggle electric system brewing 10 gallon batches.
my grainfather is great for 6 gallon batches. so here is somethings i was looking at

2 pumps for transfers and cooling
a counterflow wort chiller (homemade, copper pipe and garden hose)
a false bottom with a dip tube for mashing (I wasnt going BIAB)

one pump will help to recirculate the mash to maintain the mash temps you might be able to use your wort chiller as a heat exchanger for that. heat one pot to the temp drop the old wort chiller in it and run a hose from the other pot bottom ball valve to the pump with a ball valve on the output to the old chiller from the other side to the lid on the mash pot.
there are other ways too, like your cooler for the mashtun.
hope that helps

Equipment / BIAB 15 Gal Pot Advice
« Last post by BDRJ on June 11, 2019, 04:13:53 PM »
Hello all

So I have recently come across 2x 15 gal pots with ball valves from a couple of friends who where looking to get rid of them.

I have up to this point been an extract / partial mash brewer on my stove and would like to be able to advance into the all grain / BIAB method when possible out in my garage, freeing space in my basement.

My current equipment consists of
  • 4 gal brew pot with lid
  • copper wort chiller that fits the 4 gal pot nicely
  • 2x 5 gal glass carboys
  • 2x 6.5 gal glass carboys
  • 2x 6 gal brew buckets
  • 1 Coleman 48l cooler (that could be turned into mash tun)

Looking for some advice on what additional equipment other than a propane heater I should be on the look out for and what if any of the equipment I have now can be used for brewing 5 to 10gal BIAB batches.

I see there are multiple options and methods but any opinion or ideas would be great.

Reviews / Dubbel IPA homebrew review and recipe!
« Last post by DrHans on June 11, 2019, 02:20:33 PM »
Extract Kits / Watermelon blond
« Last post by Chuckwagon on June 11, 2019, 12:12:08 PM »
I have made a blueberry and strawberry beer using coopers blond kit.  With summer here i thought of a watermelon blond.  I probably will use coopers or muntons kit.  Has anyone tryed it.  Any tips would be appreciated.
Equipment / Re: Stc 1000 probe
« Last post by Black Dog Brewery on June 10, 2019, 07:22:14 PM »
Hi Siambrew.

You've probably got your answer already on your own by now, but "no" . . .

Standard RTD's are all Platinum and both are 100 ohms, but there are 2 wire and 3 wire versions.  The 3 wire versions are more accurate.

Typical colors for a 3 wire RTD are 1 red and 2 whites, but that is not always the standard colors.  I sometimes see 1 red and 2 blacks.

I have both at work, and 2-wire and 3-wire RTD's are not interchangeable.

When I looked up the STC-1000, the schematic shows only terminals / connections for a 2 wire RTD.

Even though one of your pics shows 3 different colored wires, whoever made that connection used 2 of the same colored spade connectors.  Thus, a 3 wire RTD.
Equipment / Re: Stc 1000 probe
« Last post by combat32 on June 04, 2019, 07:59:24 PM »
its possible, the 3 wire rtd is set up so two wires go to the sensing element monitor the other for goes to the other side of the element. strange my old company sold them with 2 black wires and one red, if i remember correctly
would have to figure which wire goes where. my guess would be the red and yellow, might be the pair to use.
one thing to confirm before is that STC might be a thermistor if that is the case i dont think it will work. i could be wrong though.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10

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